So what are the differences between those rim-straighteners?

Hello Enthusiasts,

We all see there are so many different models of rim repair machines and it makes us wonder which one would suit our needs the best.

So let me give you some basic information and comparison between the models.

In this article I will go through the "hydraulic rim straighteners" from which we have the widest variety.
We will go 'up' step-by-step explaining the more and more sophisticated machines.

So let's start with the most basic tool which doesn't even qualify as a hydraulic tool, but still is popular.


That would be the rim repair wrench.    


This wrench was designed to repair lip damages. Gives easy grig on all lips, thus it can be a very useful tool in any tire shops.
Please note this wrench is a default accessory with all hydraulic machines , and can be purchased individually also.

See the product in our webshop:
http://www.gammatradeusa.com/rim-straightener-wrench-p/lever1.htm

The next one I will talk about is the one we call the Junior rim straightener.
We use to call it an " entry level" machine, but don't let that mislead you.
This machine is perfectly capable of dealing with any damage on rims between 10"-24"



The picture shows the basic parts for later:)
The way the machine works is: there is an oil tank for the hydraulic-oil, an oil-pump (building up the hydraulic pressure with an electric motor , which goes up to the piston and produces 140 Bar pressure)
The support frame is to lean the piston against it while repairing the rim.
The following picture shows the available repair positions. We should imagine it like there is the piston with the pressing heads attached.
The piston is leaned against the support frame when we press from outside in, or against the spindle(axis) when we work inside-out.








This machine can be perfect for businesses adding rim repair as a new service or for mobile businesses.
The perfect way to start earning with an affordable machine.
See the product in our webshop:
http://www.gammatradeusa.com/rim-straightener-machine-p/14s00.htm

The next one is the Kaiser 57T
 

The difference between this model and the previous Junior is the second motor which spins the rim.
Why is it useful to have the rim spinned?
First it is easier to see if it wobbles.
Second it is handy when you decide to work on the rim with a grinder,sandpaper or something similar.
There is one more difference to the Junior though and that is the capability to accomodate some optional attachments.
These attachment are:
The polish and clean kit---so you can polish and clean the rims easily






And the multi-angle support bridge for more convinience:




Both of them are plug and play with the 57t
See them in our webshop:
http://www.gammatradeusa.com/Multi-angle-support-bridge-p/2324000.htm

http://www.gammatradeusa.com/rim-wheel-polish-and-clean-kit-p/7400.htm

The next one up is the Kaiser 5400.





This is when the lathe steps in.
From this model all of the upcoming ones will be equipped with a lathe.
So what is the lathe good for?
Some refer to that part as a CNC , so the function is very similar.
Basically the lathe is a very precisely adjustable blade which is designed to cut the rim.
By cutting I mean getting rid of the extra mass, let's say after welding or adjust the wavy lip.
Some use it to polish the rims by cutting off the dim surfaces, but my advice is to always go easy with the lathe.
My professional advice is not to use the lathe on the structure such as the drum/barell or spokes.
Just think about it, you might not want to weaken the structure holding 1/4 of the vehicle's weight approx.
We offer professional polishers for tasks as polishing.
The Kaiser 5400 has a "sliding lathe".
Let me explain with a picture:


To position the lathe we slide it on the rails to the desired position and after that the blade can be moved very  precisely with the adjustment rolls. The rolls adjust the blade moving toward the rim, with other words in-out.
If we take the blue arrows as 9 and 3 than the in-out movement would be 12 and 6.

The Kaiser 5400 also works 10-24" and plug and play with the polisher kit.
See the product in our webshop:
http://www.gammatradeusa.com/rim-straightener-machine-with-lathe-p/5400.htm

The next model is the Kaiser 5700
This machine is very similar to the 5400 exept the lathe part.
While the 5400 has a sliding lathe, the 5700 has a turning one.
Let me explain it with a picture:




This turning lathe is really a matter of taste or experience.
I would say some prefer the sliding one, some like the turning one.
Apart from this there is no real difference between the 5400 and the 5700.
This model is also plug and play with the polisher kit and the bigger support frame.
See the machine in our webshop:
http://www.gammatradeusa.com/rim-straightener-machine-with-lathe-p/5700.htm

With the next model we enter into the family of the "gearbox-driven" family.
This means how the power produced by the motor is transferred to the spindle/axis.
The previous models were V-belt driven while the following ones have gearing for that.

The next line of products is called the "Jumbo"s.

These machines are very strongly built, gearing driven and are equipped with with a precisely adjustable lathe.(I'll explain in a bit)
You'll find two different models:
The Jumbo:

http://www.gammatradeusa.com/rim-straightener-machine-with-lathe-p/2300.htm

And the Jumbo K:

Yup,any better idea instead of the K is welcome.:)



So the difference between the two models is the support frame.
While the Jumbo has a normal support frame the Jumbo K has a so called multi-position support frame.
What the multi-position support frame does is it gives you more angles,distances during the repair.
If you take a close look on the pictures the difference is hard to miss.

Now with the next machine we enter the hands-free product line.
Being a hands-free machine means that the operator adjusts the angles, pressure,turns, with a joystick.
What are the advantages?
First of all his/your hand is never near to the piston which produces the hydraulic pressure.
Less chance to suffer an injury and also it is more convinient as the weight of the piston isnt on your arm and wrist.
From the client's point of view the machine looks extremely professional.
No other company has any straightener with even remotely similar looks.
These machines are bigger than the ones we've already discussed and also heavier.
We have two different models from this line:

The first one is the Professional Digital.



Now if we take a look on the picture , I pinpointed the main differences.
-It has a folding lathe (folds in when not needed and folds out when there's work to do with a press of the button)
-Joystick operated.(You can adjust of the movement of the piston with the joystick just like videogames:))
-The piston (pressing-pushing head) is also capable of pulling the defected parts, so it isn't only push anymore.
-Works form 10" to 26" so even bigger rims are covered.
-You can control the speed of the turning/spinnig of the rim electronically.
-The deffect measuring is digital:
it means that the gauge/meter is digital (unlike the previous models where it was a mechanical meter) and the data will show up on a screen right on top of the joystick.
With other words the machine will indicate if the rim is damaged from outside in or inside out and how much .
The machine with a video can be found on our website(scroll down a bit for the video):
http://www.gammatradeusa.com/rim-straightener-machine-with-lathe-p/5600ce.htm

These machines are very popular among dealerships.

The next one is the Grandmaster.
Now this is the best hydraulic machine there is on the market.






This machine works from 10" up to 30"

This machine has all the improvements that decades of straightening can give:
-Digital mesuring
-Multi position clamps: the easiest way to find the best position for the pressing head.
-Hands-free operation
-Bottom clamp: As professionals we know that the bottom of the rim tends to move slightly as we are pushing the top. It is more like a twisting move which makes the bottom to move a mm or two. The bottom clamp holds the bottom of the rim rock solid, so the adjustments on top will be more accurate resulting less pushes to get the perfect result.
It is important to mention that on this model the lathe is on the other side of the machine (unlike Professional Digital) so you have to have enough space to walk around the machine.
Please watch the video for better understanding(scroll down a little on the page):
http://www.gammatradeusa.com/Grandmaster-rim-straightener-machine-with-lathe-p/7500ce.htm

I hope this little article answer a few questions and also gives the impression that we know what we are talking about.
We don't only sell the machines but use them on a daily basis.
All facts combined trust us when we say we've picked the best quality products available.
Our goal was to find the machines we can work with, last long and gives the best possible productivity and comfort.
If there was any better machines we'd be selling those:)

In case you'd give us a little appreciation for our hard work with gathering all the information like us on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/Garagetools

Happy straightening

SEMA Auto Show 2013

Hello Friends,

SEMA Auto Show is organized every year by the Specialty Equipment Market Association. It takes place in Las Vegas, Nevada. This is the biggest modified cars show in the United States. The show is divided in 4 main attractions: hot rod and muscle car tuning, modified modern car, rims and innovative technology. 

You can find there everything which is related to cars, trucks or bikes.

SEMA 2013 - GammaTrade LLC.

The SEMA Show is always a bit of a madhouse, and the 2013 SEMA Show was no exception. There are thousands of parts to customize with for as far as the eye can see. There are suppliers for custom headlamp LEDs, premium paints, vinyl wrap, and speakers and wheels bigger than what makes practical sense.

SEMA 2013 - GammaTrade LLC.

As you are probably aware we at the GammaTrade always aim to discover the newest technologies and equipments. There's hardly an exhibition we don't visit when it is about garage equipment and tools. So we went again to the SEMA show in Las Vegas :)

Here we share some photos we made over there and you will see the new equipment on our website as they come available very soon.

SEMA 2013 - GammaTrade LLC.

SEMA 2013 - GammaTrade LLC.

SEMA 2013 - GammaTrade LLC.

SEMA 2013 - GammaTrade LLC.

SEMA 2013 - GammaTrade LLC.

SEMA 2013 - GammaTrade LLC.

Renewed GammaTrade webshop!!!

Check out our renewed website. It is easier to use, find all the best rim related equipment now easier at: www.gammatradeusa.com

www.gammatradeusa.com

We tried to create  a better looking webdesign wich is easier to use.

We understand that being the „Rimcare Experts” also comes with the  responsibility of delivering  clear and  information with easy access.

You can simply find everything which is related to wheels or rims, when it comes to rimstraightening, rim repair, rim refinish, or refurbish.

Additionally you can find  all general garage equipments are on our product range, lifts, tirechangers, wheelbalancers, impact wrenches. All machinery  needed for a tire-shop or a garage.

Let us know how you like the new design, or what would you change? Tell us and we reward you with a 3% discount on your next purchase.

For more information click:

GammaTrade LLC.

How can rim straightening help improve safety

In this article we get a little into the safety issue with rims.

Whenever a wheel/rim suffers a hit and gets bent there's always a chance that the structure is damaged.
What do I mean with that?
You might not even see the damage on the rim -it is mostly on the drum or inner section - but you feel wobbleing, or just simply loosing air pressure .

Now, you might say I can live with that, but let me stop you there for a moment.
Firstly, besides loosing air, the crack could spread, causing the rim to weaken and possibly seperate; Secondly, you cannot predict when or how the rim might totally fail; if it happens at speed, you could loose control of the vehicle and at best damage the vehicle, at worst endanger yourself and others in a possible accident.

When a wheel is damaged there might be 'micro fractures' which are impossible to spot by the naked eye.
That's when the rim straightener guy comes to the game. When he puts your rim on the machine and starts the pressing process, he also checks for those micro fractures.
How is that?
Micro fractures tend to behave like the cracks you see on your windshield. They start small,but keep on growing.
Now when a professional  strarts to repair the rim he'll go round the damaged area and possibly the whole rim with very gentle presses.
If there's a micro fracture,he'll hear a loud popping noise so he'd know there's a crack.
It is very important to tell it was not the guy ruining the rim, but  the one finding a hidden problem.
The rim would crack eitherway so I say it is better to find it sooner in a professional enviroment than later on the road.
After that  it has to be decided to weld it or go for a new one. A professional will do that decision for you.
Bottom line is, having your rims checked by a professional can save you a lots of trouble.

Drive safe.

For professional rim straightening equipment don't forget to visit our shop at:
Gammatrade

Metal Polishing

Chrome

You do not polish chrome, you clean it. Unlike aluminum and stainless, chrome does not oxidize much, it is inert, very hard, and usually pretty thin. People have tried a bunch of polishes, including the expensive ones, and have found nothing that will remove scratches from chrome. You live with a scratch in chrome, or replace the part.
If you are very careful not to scratch it, all you have to do is remove the schmutz and the shiny chrome will be (somewhere) underneath. Use soaps and solvents, but keep abrasives far away from chrome. Be very careful to use clean, soft rags. One imbedded metal chip will ruin your day.

Aluminum and Stainless

There are hundreds of alloys of both, but all share the fact that they oxidize at the surface. In fact, the oxidize layer is what protects the metal from further corrosion. All you have to do is remove the oxidization and get it smooth enough and it will rival chrome in shine.
 

Smoothing

If the part is just oxidized and gray, but smooth, skip on down to "Buffing"; however, if it is pitted or scratched, it must be smoothed. You cannot polish pits.
Wet-sand the part with #600 wet-dry paper using a little liquid dish soap in the water. Sand for a while, then wipe off the dreck, and look closely. If you can still see the pits or scratches through the dark, dull gray, you are not done. When you have a uniform, dull gray, you are ready to buff. Do not worry too much about screw recesses and other hard to reach places. They do not show in the finished job if the edges are smooth.

Buffing

The final polish on metal is achieved by buffing it with a rotating wheel that has been loaded with a buffing compound. These compounds are very fine abrasives, usually combined with wax in a bar form. From the coarsest to the finest, they are:

• Emery (gray) - aggressive, usually used on steel
• Tripoli (brown) - usually used on brass
• White compound (white) - for fine polishing
• Jeweler's Rouge (usually pink) - the finest, for a mirror finish

Many people lean towards using just emery and rouge. Emery is good for a first cut on stainless, or on aluminum followed by rouge. Usually you can go directly from wet sanding to rouge.
Buffing is a "feel" thing. Keep the wheel moving and you will see when it is polishing effectively. Wipe off the wax schmutz now and then and have a look. Different alloys require different compounds, speeds, and pressure. You cannot really hurt anything, so experiment. If you want to get anal, do a final hand polish (see "Maintenance" below).

Wheels

Use only cloth wheels.Sisal is too aggressive, and felt does not conform to the odd shapes of boat parts. Look at the side of a buffing wheel and note the ring(s) of stitching. Fewer rings mean softer (for polishing), more rings mean harder (for cutting). A 6" wheel can have from one to seven rings. Use a harder buff with emery, a softer buff with rouge. Speed depends on wheel size. For a 6" max. 3500 RPM, 4" about 6000 RPM, 2" about 12000 RPM, and the little sub-1" wheels can be turned up to 15000 RPM. Go by the wheel manufacturer's specifications.
Wheels come with a bunch of different hole sizes, so get the right mandrel or bushings. An unbalanced wheel at 6000 RPM will get your attention! The mandrel is the Steel shaft that holds the wheel, and is turned by the tool. You can get sets for use in an electric drill at the hardware store, but you need a drill that turns up to about 2000 RPM.
Start at slower speeds and work up. You can be too fast as well as too slow.
Use the buff so that it rotates off the edge of the piece. If it rotates toward the edge, well, let us just say you will learn quickly after it throws a couple of pieces at you.
Load the wheel by arranging it so the top is turning away from you, then apply the bar of compound for a few seconds. You will see it melt in. After you load a few times, you will see clumps of compound build up in the wheel. Again, have the top of the wheel turning away from you while you "rake" the wheel. They sell wheel rakes, but I just use an old "Sawsall" blade. Rake between different compounds, too, but it is best to have one wheel dedicated to one compound. Mark the wheel with a magic marker. WEAR EYE PROTECTION! Read that last sentence again.

Tools

Ah, the Tim Allen moment (argh!). Listed below in order of purchase.

• Electric drill turning 2" and 4" wheels at about 2000 RPM. I use a Bosch that was the fastest I could find, and it does a nice job with hardware store wheels. The problem is, those wheels will not fit into all the little spaces. Mostly, use the biggest wheel that will fit, as the smaller ones can streak.
• "Dremel" type tool. I use a $30 Black and Decker (at Home Depot) as I think Dremel is overpriced. It will turn all Dremel bitts and buffs, which you can get in hardware stores. I usually use the low or middle speeds (12000, 24000). The 1" buffs will fit most places, and there are small (3/8) felt bullet shapes that fit into screw recesses.
• Bench mount grinder with two 1/2" buffs on each shaft, a hard pair for emery, soft for rouge. This is wonderful if you can take the part to the buffer. When I had the rocker boxes and front sprocket cover off to install 20 more cubic inches (argh!, argh!) it did a beautiful job. Limited use though.

Sources

• Southwest Metal Finishing Supply Co. ( swmetal.com). Get their L-1000 liquid hand metal polish, more below.
• Quality Buff Co. ( qualitybuff.com). See "midget buffs", "adapters", "arbors" and "compounds".

These are sister companies, and they have just about everything for metal polishing. Call and ask for whatever you need at (903)509-4500.

Maintenance

Oxidization protects the metal, so as soon as you are finished polishing, the metal starts to oxidize again. I have not found anything good to protect it.
Waxes tend to "gray" the sheen, and do not last long in any case. "Harley Spray" from the dealer seems to do as well as the wax, and is quick to apply. You can do the whole bike with it once a week.
About once a month I do the following, which takes about 90 minutes for the entire bike. Use the L-1000 polish you got from Southwest Metal (above). It is liquid rouge. Shake Hell out of the bottle, upside down (careful!), until there is no residue at the bottom. Soak a 6" square piece of clean terry or sweatshirt cloth, then squeeze it as dry as you can. That one rag will do all the aluminum on my whole bike. It turns really black and gritty, but it seems to keep polishing.
Polish by hand, rubbing in a circular pattern as much as possible, until the area turns black. Allow to dry and buff off with another perfectly clean rag. If you drop the rouge rag, throw it away and start another. For me, this works better than "Mothers", and is a hell of a lot cheaper.
So far, this seems to be all that is required to keep the polish bright, but I expect that I will have to touch-up the aluminum by machine buffing lightly about every six months.
For quality equipment visit:
rim care specialists

Credit to www.acbshpl.com